MARCH 11, 2010 ISSUE
Mountain Living
Cabbage for St. Patrick’s Day
Beautiful Savoy di Verona Cabbage with morning dew jewelsYes you did, so you did, so did he and so did I.
And the more I think about it sure the nearer I’m to cry.
Oh, wasn’t it the happy days when troubles we had not,
And our mothers made Colcannon in the little skillet pot.
—from Colcannon, a traditional Irish folk song
To celebrate the strength of the Irish people, make ‘survival’ Colcannon which is just plain boiled potatoes and plain cooked cabbage mixed together and eaten with thanks. For a St. Patrick’s Day meal that speaks of better times add pork and dairy products for a luscious dish that is perfect to end winter and begin the longer days of spring.
Although we think about the green hills of Ireland and the green heads of cabbage linked together, the first early cabbages were cultivated in China over 4,000 years ago. Those first plants were more like today’s kale with loose heads full of large dark green leaves. As cabbages were grown in gardens, varieties with blanched pale inner leaves and crisp heads developed. Travelers brought cabbage from Asia through Europe and on to the British Isles where the cool summers, mild winters and abundant rainfall made for perfect growing conditions. There, cabbage was combined with potatoes for the English Bubble and Squeak and Rumbledethumps from Scotland, both Colcannon cousins.
Those same requirements mean that we can grow big beautiful cabbage heads here, too. Although our valleys are no longer full of acres meant for the kraut factory, we still have another perfect climate for growing crisp green and red heads. Now is the time to start your plants. In recent years with milder winters you might have been planting outside now but this year you will have to wait for the snow to melt.
While you are waiting you can start your cabbage seedlings. You can buy perfectly good cabbage plants but your choices are very limited. Cabbage seeds are very easy to sprout and the plants grow quickly so try growing you own. Each plant needs a little pot and some good sterile soil or soil-less mix, both available at your garden center. Poke the little black seeds about a quarter inch into the soil, water well and put into a warm place until they sprout. Then, they need cool temperatures and plenty of sunshine. You can put your sprouted seedlings outside on warm, sunny days and bring them back into the house during cold nights.
Let your little plants grow until they are about six inches tall with good green leaves. As soon as the snow melts you can plant them in full sun. Although it is difficult, remove all of the leaves except the smallest three to give the plant its best chance to thrive.
Early Jersey Wakefield is a small, early, pointed head cabbage that dates back to 1840 and is tender and delicious. Pixie Mini is also early and even smaller for single servings. Golden acres is another older variety that is easy and good raw or cooked. Testa De Ferro has absolutely wonderful flavor and Savoy di Verona has beautiful crinkled leaves with shades of pink and green and purple.
Celebrate the day when everyone is Irish by planting cabbage and making Colcannon. For more holiday atmosphere go to YouTube and listen to wonderful Irish folksingers sing all about it.
Holiday Colcannon
This dish is filled with the taste of Ireland and is traditionally served at Halloween and Christmas as well as this week. Remember, you only need the potatoes and cabbage for an authentic dish so add all of the extras or just a couple. For example, you can use the bacon and ham or just one of them. You can use regular or skim milk and I used chives because the pots in the windows are growing at a fast rate for the first time in months. The cheese is wonderful melted through the vegetables and now we have Irish cheddar in our grocery stores. We also have Irish butter, which is delicious. Some recipes for Colcannon call for one pound of butter for every three pounds of potatoes. Readers know I am not afraid to use some butter but it is a very rich dish when you use a quarter pound or one stick. Tradition does call for generous pats of butter put on top to melt into the dish for extra taste and the visual appeal. You can make and eat this right away or make it ahead and reheat. If you want to make the Colcannon in advance use only half of the cheese, sprinkle the other quarter pound on top and chill; then when you are ready, heat it in a 350 degree oven for about 45 minutes.
Ingredients:
3 pounds potatoes
Salt
1/2 pound bacon
1/2 pound ham
2 large yellow onions
1 medium head of green cabbage
1 cup milk
Butter
1/2 pound Irish or other cheddar cheese
Freshly ground black pepper
1 bunch fresh chives or green onions
Preparation:
Peel the potatoes, cut into chunks and place into saucepan. Cover with water, then add salt until it tastes as salty as the ocean. Bring to a simmer, lower the heat and cook until the potatoes are soft.
While the potatoes are cooking fry the bacon in your largest skillet. Remove when crisp and reserve. Cut the ham into cubes and cook in the bacon drippings until lightly browned. Remove and reserve. Peel and dice the onions and cook, stirring frequently in the bacon drippings until golden. Remove the tough outer leaves and core of the cabbage and cut into thin slices, just like slaw.
Add the cabbage to the onions and continue cooking and stirring until the cabbage is wilted and tender.
Heat the milk with the amount of butter you decide belongs in your Colcannon.
While the cabbage is cooking drain the potatoes and mash with the milk and butter.
Crumble the bacon, grate the cheese, grind the black pepper and cut the chives or green onions into little rings (I use kitchen scissors.)
Combine the mashed potatoes with the onion and cabbage mixture, then fold in the rest of the ingredients. Leave a few chives to sprinkle on top and serve with a generous pat of butter on top.
To make a comment, ask a question or find out more about sources, contact Amy at amycookehcp@bellsouth.net.
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